On September 5, we traveled to Haines, Alaska, passing through Haines Junction and turning south on the Haines Highway which passes through the St. Elias mountain range, one of the most gorgeous roads of the north. 
Last summer, Kay and I drove through the valley accompanied by a rain shower. The rainbows were ever present.
We also were lucky to run into a grizzly that was feasting on roots beside the highway. Notice the large lump between his shoulders - That is the easy way to tell the difference between a black and brown (grizzly) bear. 
The fall drive this summer through the St. Elias range was just as wonderful. 
Haines is a MUST stop on a trip North. It has resisted the temptation to allow the cruise ship companies to take over its harbor and transform this small community into just another tourist attraction. As a result, very few cruise ships stop at its harbor and its economy struggles. But the community is a genuine experience of Alaska and is beautiful!
Kay and I have been to Haines for three summers, and I doubt that we would go to Alaska without stopping there. For two summers, we stayed at the Captain's Choice Motel where we could look out on the Lynn Canal and watch the fishing boats, ferries,and cruise ships pass by. (The cruise ship companies have taken over Skagway and ships must pass by the Haines harbor to reach this small town which lies further up the Lynn Canal). Haines has much to offer. It's best known for its Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve which lies north of Haines and where over 3,000 bald eagles gather in mid-October to feed on the late salmon runs. Although we've never been there in October, we've seen a lot of bald eagles each summer we've visited. Haines also has a center for Alaska Indian artists where one can see totem poles being carved and view other works by native artisans. 
Haines has great places to eat. The Chilkat bakery has a small restaurant which serves wonderful lunches. A restaurant above the small boat harbor has wonderful fish and chips as well as buttermilk pie "to die for."
But by far, the most fun is a ride to the Chilkoot Lake which is approximately 10 miles outside Haines. 
One evening as Kay and I drove to the lake, we spotted a seal swimming along the inlet near the shoreline. We stopped the car and began walking along the water's edge where it spotted us trying to spot him. He swam closer to us and would occasionally break the surface of the placid water to inspect us further. He provided us our own National Geographic show for about half an hour.
This lake lies on a stream where salmon run and fisherman of all types, including black bears, can be seen along its banks. The bears begin showing up in July. A fish barrier lies across the stream and an "official counter" works long hours, documenting the number of salmon who run. (If I die and come back to this life, I would like to be a government employee like this one - just sitting all day and evening - listening to my favorite radio station - and counting fish as they swim through an opening! And to think it's a job with pay!) This summer a mother bear stood on the bottom ledge of the barrier and swept up the salmon easily with one hand as they searched for a way around the barrier to go further up stream. The official counter has a rifle that he occasionally grabs when the bears look interested in climbing on the top of the barrier where he is posted.
Haines and Skagway are the only two cities in Southeast Alaska which can be reached by land. The remainder must be reached by air or ferry.
